Amina A.Soulimani is a PhD candidate in Anthropology at the University of Cape Town in South Africa. Originally from Rabat, Morocco, she shares insights into her journey across the continent, the challenges she has faced, and her thoughts on the future of a borderless Africa.

Ruth: How many countries have you visited so far? Can you share your experience navigating different African countries?

Amina: So far, I have been to nine countries in total. Since my primary mode of transportation has been flights, the experience has been both manageable and hectic. There are many questions you have to ask yourself before taking a trip. It’s an emotional burden because you have to mentally and emotionally prepare for the stress of being at the border, that comes with traveling on the continent and also elsewhere. I often feel the anxiety in my gut.

Ruth: Can you tell us about some of the challenges you have faced?

Amina: One of my major challenges has been traveling between university and Morocco. There is no direct flight from South Africa to Morocco due to political tensions between the two countries. As a result, I have to take a flight from South Africa to France first, which is an 11-hour trip on average, before boarding a plane to Morocco, which is another three hours, making a total of 14 hours. The ironic part is that the flight to France is quite pricey. Other possible itineraries, through Istanbul for instance, can be cheaper if booked in advance, but it’s a longer route, bringing the total travel time nearly anything between 24 to 29 hours.

Ruth: Wow, that’s quite a taxing experience. I can imagine the stress of navigating such a journey every time you have to go home. In line with that, do you think the visa processes make it any less stressful?

Amina: Honestly, they don’t, for various reasons. There’s a general lack of information for some countries more than others. Last month, I was in Mozambique, and according to the information online, I thought I could get a visa on arrival. But when I landed, it was a hassle, the immigration officer said I couldn’t, and I was held up at the airport for quite some time. I also heard that a few Ethiopian presenters attending the same conference I was there for couldn’t make it because of visa issues. There is a lack of transparency. You can see information online (from credible sources) that says one thing, but you are never sure if it’s accurate.

Ruth: I can imagine. The questions you’re asked during travel don’t help either. Have you had any easier experiences or generally better treatment?

Amina: I think when I was younger, it felt easier. When a university and a third party handles your travel and visa arrangements, you never really know how much actually goes into it. I recall my trips to and from Mauritius; the visa arrangements were seamless because I didn’t have to answer any questions or be held up at the counter, as my school had taken care of everything. I recognise the privilege in that. But sometimes, students or travelers with printed and stamped visas still get questioned and held up. The border is an immigration officer.

But if I were to speak of a memorable experience, I’d say landing in Nairobi, Kenya was a pleasant surprise. The officials were very friendly and hospitable to everyone in the queue, even going as far as using endearments and giving tips for a more enjoyable trip.

Ruth: That sounds nice. I’m sure that must have been refreshing. Since you’ve mentioned that great experience, my next question is: Do you think there’s a significant disconnect between the regions of Africa?

Amina: To some extent, yes. I see it at two levels. In Morocco, you strongly sense a need for  securitization and border control. I am always asked about my whereabouts everytime I travel “south”.There is always the question of “what are you going to do there?” And here “there” is an unknown. Many parts of the continent exist in an imaginary characterised by scarcity and insecurity. Partly, the way we view each other on the continent has been influenced by Western media. We consume each other through that gaze. For example, when I traveled to Abuja, the capital of Nigeria, I was so surprised and a bit sad at my own ignorance because the limited “idea” of Nigeria  that I had. I was shocked; the trees are even greener than what I’m used to at home. It’s a simple example, but had I not experienced it firsthand and educated myself, I wouldn’t have known. A lot of people won’t know, and that ignorance can breed distaste, moral and racial superiority, which increases divisions brought up through colonialism for instance.

Ruth: As a follow-up, do you think easier cross-border control would aid cultural integration?
Amina: Absolutely. At a personal level, it would help us travel with dignity. We would also not be deprived of new experiences, friendships, and the possibility to create communal histories. Imagine if we could have pan-African summer camps for children in other countries, allowing them to experience other forms of hospitality and ways of life. Regional integration could eliminate the stress of being estranged from one’s kin. I am thinking here of families and relatives who have been divided by a border, the Moroccan-Algerian border for instance.

Regional integration would also significantly impact food and consumption on a large scale. When I was a child, I remember asking my dad why we were eating bananas from Costa Rica. The free movement of goods, services, and people can offer answers to many of these questions.

Ruth: Thank you, Amina. It’s been such an interesting conversation. As we wrap up, what are your final thoughts on a borderless Africa?

Amina: The vision of a borderless Africa would alleviate the emotional labor of the questions you have to ask yourself before taking a trip on the continent. You always wonder if you’re going to be legitimate in another country, whether you can do something as simple as go to a hospital. The quote by Achille Mbembe, “The capacity to decide who can move, who can settle, where and under what conditions is increasingly becoming the core of political struggles,” is inherently true. Without these political struggles and Western influences, a unified, borderless Africa would be unstoppable.

As my conversation with Amina draws to a close, it becomes evident that her journey is one that resonates with many. She generously shared a link to an article she wrote about her experience with border control on one of her trips. Here’s an excerpt:

“Last month, I was accused of being a risk passenger on a flight operated by Alitalia, the ‘flag carrier of Italy.’ I was on my way to Addis Ababa from Casablanca, with a transit of less than two hours in Rome. The ‘incident’ occurred while I was on my way to board the flight, after spending a significant amount of time explaining to the Moroccan immigration officer that Ethiopia had changed its visa entry requirements for Africans and was now issuing visas upon arrival. Nonetheless, the officer was hesitant to let me pass without seeing any visa stamped on my passport.”

This experience highlights a significant issue hindering the ease of cross-border travel within Africa. Amina’s story underscores the complexities and emotional toll that often accompany mobility across the continent. Her reflections on the need for a more integrated and borderless Africa emphasize the potential benefits of the African Union’s Free Movement Protocol (FMP). Such initiatives could greatly reduce the challenges faced by travelers like Amina, fostering greater unity and cultural exchange across the continent.

For those inspired by Amina’s journey and experiences, if you would also like to share your story with us regarding mobility on the continent and the African Union’s FMP, please don’t hesitate to reach out. We’re eager to hear from you.

To read Amina’s full article, visit: https://themetric.org/articles/the-road-to-nowhere-carrying-risk-at-border-control